Horse Riding Helmets: Safety Standards, Fit and When to Replace One

Head injuries are the leading cause of serious injury and death in horseback riding. A rider's head can be 8 feet or more off the ground, a horse can move at 30 miles an hour, and a horse's hoof can hit with enormous force. A certified, well-fitting helmet is the single best piece of safety gear you can buy, and it works only if it's the right kind and fits properly.

What makes a riding helmet different

Equestrian helmets are built and tested for the kinds of accidents riders have. In the United States, the standard is ASTM F1163. Helmets that meet it carry a certification sticker from the Safety Equipment Institute (SEI), which tests samples independently.

The standard tests helmets for:

  • Impacts on flat and curved surfaces, simulating falls onto the ground and onto rails or rocks.
  • Impacts on a horseshoe-shaped anvil, simulating a kick or a hoof strike.
  • Penetration, from a sharp point.
  • Harness strength and retention, so the helmet stays on through a fall.
  • Coverage, which extends further down the back of the head than many sports helmets.

Bike, ski and climbing helmets are tested for different impacts and usually cover less of the back of the head. They aren't a substitute for riding, and most show rules don't allow them.

Other certifications you may see include PAS 015 and VG1 (Europe and the UK) and AS/NZS 3838 (Australia and New Zealand). US Equestrian requires ASTM/SEI certified helmets for most competition. Check the current rules for your discipline.

Types of riding helmets

  • Schooling helmets are the everyday helmet: well ventilated, often with a removable washable liner.
  • Show helmets have a velvet or smooth finish and a classic look for the show ring. Many are as protective as schooling helmets.
  • Skull caps have no brim and are worn under a silk cover for cross-country and racing. Eventing rules require them for cross-country at many levels.
  • Western-style helmets look like a cowboy hat or use a low-profile shape, while still meeting ASTM F1163.
  • Helmets with rotational impact systems, such as MIPS, add a low-friction layer meant to reduce the twisting forces in angled impacts.

Price doesn't always match protection. All certified helmets have passed the same test. A more expensive helmet usually adds comfort, ventilation, finish and fit adjustments.

How to measure your head

  1. Wrap a soft tape measure around your head about an inch above your eyebrows, just above the tops of your ears, and around the widest part at the back.
  2. Keep the tape level and snug.
  3. Note the measurement in centimeters. Helmets are sold in centimeter sizes, hat sizes (like 7 1/8), or S/M/L. Check each brand's chart.

If you wear your hair in a bun or braid while riding, measure the way you'll ride.

Head shape matters

Two people with the same head circumference can need different helmets. Heads range from round oval, wider at the sides, to long oval, longer front to back and narrower at the temples. Brands design for different shapes:

  • If a helmet presses at the forehead and back but has gaps at the sides, try a long-oval model.
  • If it presses at the temples and leaves gaps at the front and back, try a rounder model.

The only reliable way to know is to try several on, ideally at a store with a trained fitter.

How a helmet should fit

Put the helmet on without doing up the harness and check these points:

  • Position: it sits level, with the front edge about one finger's width above your eyebrows. It shouldn't tip back on your head.
  • Snugness: it feels evenly snug all around, with no pressure points that would cause a headache after 20 minutes.
  • The push test: push the helmet forward and back, and side to side. Your eyebrows and forehead skin should move with it. If the helmet slides over your skin, it's too big.
  • The bend test: bend forward and shake your head gently. The helmet should stay in place without the harness.

Then fasten the harness:

  • The side straps should form a V just below each earlobe.
  • The chin strap should be snug, with room for about one finger between strap and chin. When you open your mouth wide, you should feel the helmet pull down slightly.

A helmet that's a little too big can't be fixed with padding. Choose the next size down or a different shape.

When to replace a helmet

After any fall where your head hits the ground, or the helmet takes a hard impact. The foam liner protects you by crushing, and once crushed it doesn't spring back. The damage is often invisible. Many manufacturers offer discounted crash replacement within a few years of purchase.

Roughly every five years even without a fall. Sweat, heat, sunlight and time break down the shell and liner. Check the manufacturing date inside the helmet.

Right away if you see cracks in the shell, a dented or compressed liner, a damaged harness or a broken buckle.

Don't buy used helmets. You can't know their history.

Caring for your helmet

  • Store it at room temperature. A hot car or a trailer tack room in summer can damage the liner.
  • Don't drop it on hard floors. Even that can compress the foam.
  • Wash removable liners according to the maker's instructions and air-dry them.
  • Don't paint the shell or add stickers that use solvent-based glue, which can weaken it.

Helmets for kids

Children should always ride in a properly fitted, certified helmet, from their first pony ride on. Kids' heads grow, so check fit at the start of every season, and don't buy a size up to "grow into." A loose helmet can slip over the eyes or come off in a fall. See our picks for kids' riding helmets.

For adults, compare our riding helmet picks. For more protection, read about safety vests and air vests.

Sources

Frequently Asked Questions