Saddle and Leather Care: How to Clean, Condition and Store Tack So It Lasts

Why leather needs care

Leather is tanned animal hide. It stays strong and supple as long as its fibers keep some moisture and natural oils. Several things work against it:

• Sweat contains salt, which draws moisture out of leather and leaves it stiff.
• Dirt and grit grind into the surface and wear it away, especially where leather rubs.
• Water soaks in, then dries out the leather as it evaporates, sometimes unevenly.
• Heat and sunlight dry and crack it.
• Humidity and darkness encourage mold.

A simple routine prevents most of this.

After every ride: a quick wipe

It takes two minutes:

1. Rinse the bit in water to remove saliva and food before it dries.
2. Wipe the bridle, reins and girth with a damp sponge, paying attention to areas that touch the horse.
3. Wipe the underside of the saddle flaps and any area with sweat or mud.
4. Brush off saddle pads and girths, and let them air dry.

Regular cleaning with saddle soap

Every week or two, depending on how much you ride, give tack a deeper clean. For bridles, take them apart every month or so to clean under buckles and keepers, where dirt builds up.

1. Wipe off loose dirt with a damp sponge or soft brush. For Western saddles with tooling, use a soft toothbrush to get dirt out of the carved designs.
2. Use saddle soap on a sponge that's damp, not wet. Too much water soaks the leather. Work up a light lather and clean in small circles.
3. Wipe off the excess with a clean, slightly damp sponge. Leftover soap attracts dirt.
4. Let it dry naturally, away from heaters and direct sun.

Glycerine-based saddle soaps clean and leave a light protective layer. Some riders use a separate leather cleaner first, then a conditioner.

Conditioning: when and how much

After cleaning, leather that looks dry, pale or stiff needs conditioning. Leather that's still dark and supple usually doesn't.

• Leather conditioners (creams, balms and lotions) are best for regular use. Apply a thin layer with a sponge or cloth, let it soak in, then buff off any excess.
• Oils, such as neatsfoot oil, soak in deeply and help very dry or new leather. Use them sparingly. Too much oil makes leather soft, stretchy and greasy, darkens it, attracts dirt and can weaken stitching.
• New saddles and bridles: follow the maker's instructions. Some recommend a light oiling before first use; others don't. Testing a product on a hidden spot first is a good habit.
• Focus on the flesh side, the rougher underside of the leather, which absorbs conditioner best.

Special materials

• Rough-out or suede leather, common on Western saddle seats and fenders, shouldn't be oiled or soaped. Brush it with a stiff brush to restore the nap.
• Synthetic saddles can usually be washed with water and a mild soap. Check the maker's guide.
• Fleece and sheepskin linings and pads can be brushed and washed gently in cool water with a wool wash.
• Patent leather on show bridles and boots is wiped with a damp cloth and a little glass cleaner or patent leather cleaner.

Riding boots

Leather riding boots, whether paddock, tall or cowboy boots, follow the same rules:

• Brush or wipe off mud and manure after each ride.
• Clean with saddle soap or a boot cleaner, then condition.
• Polish if you like a shine, especially for shows.
• Dry wet boots slowly at room temperature, with boot trees or newspaper inside to hold their shape. Never dry them near a heater. A boot dryer that uses gentle heat is safer.
• Store tall boots upright with boot trees so the ankles don't crease and crack.

Mold and mildew

Mold shows up as white, green or gray fuzz or spots, usually on tack stored in a damp tack room.

1. Take the tack outside so spores don't spread.
2. Brush off loose mold.
3. Wipe with a leather cleaner or a cloth dampened with a mild solution recommended for leather mold. Test on a hidden spot first.
4. Let it dry completely, then condition.
5. Fix the cause: better ventilation, a dehumidifier, or moving tack to a drier room.

Soaked tack

If tack gets soaked in a rainstorm or a creek crossing:

1. Wipe off mud and excess water.
2. Let it dry slowly at room temperature, away from heaters, fires and direct sun.
3. Condition it while it's still slightly damp, so the conditioner soaks in as the leather dries.

Storing tack

• Saddles should sit on a saddle rack shaped to support the panels or bars evenly. Never stand a saddle on its pommel or leave it on the floor where it can be stepped on or knocked over.
• Bridles hang on a rounded bridle rack that keeps the crownpiece from creasing.
• Covers: a breathable saddle cover keeps dust and light off. Avoid sealing leather in plastic, which traps moisture.
• The tack room should be cool, dry and ventilated. Hot trailers and damp basements are both hard on leather.

Safety checks

Every time you clean, look closely at the parts that hold you on:

• Stitching on stirrup leathers, billets, girth buckles, reins and bridle cheekpieces. Look for loose, broken or rotted thread.
• Billets (the straps that hold the girth). Check for cracks and stretched holes.
• Stirrup leathers. Check where they bend around the stirrup bar and buckle; replace them when they crack.
• Reins. Check where they attach to the bit, which takes wear and saliva.
• Western saddles: latigos, cinch straps, the cinch itself and the back cinch connector strap.
• Girths and cinches: worn buckles, frayed material, broken elastic.

When in doubt, replace or have a saddler repair it. The cost is tiny next to a fall.

Sources

• University of Florida IFAS: Saddle and Tack Care in Hot and Humid Environments (AN303)
• University of Georgia: Caring for the English Saddle
• Michigan State University Extension: Top Five Tips to Maximize the Life of Your Horse Tack