Bridles, Nosebands and Martingales Explained: Parts, Types and How to Fit Them

By Gayle Woods Editors Updated 6 min read

To a beginner, a bridle can look like a tangle of straps, and a tack shop wall full of nosebands and martingales makes it worse. Each piece has a specific purpose, and knowing what each one does helps you choose the right equipment and fit it so it doesn't cause discomfort.

Parts of an English bridle

  • Crownpiece (headpiece): goes over the poll, behind the ears, and holds everything up.
  • Browband: runs across the forehead, keeping the crownpiece from sliding back.
  • Throatlatch: a strap under the throat that keeps the bridle from coming off over the ears.
  • Cheekpieces: run down each side of the face and attach to the bit.
  • Noseband: encircles the nose. On English bridles, it has its own separate headpiece.
  • Bit: see how horse bits work.
  • Reins: from the bit to your hands. Common types are laced, rubber-grip and web, chosen for grip in rain and sweat.

Western headstalls

Western bridles, often called headstalls, are usually simpler:

  • Browband headstall: like an English bridle but usually without a noseband.
  • One-ear or split-ear headstall: a loop goes around one or both ears instead of a browband. Common on show and reining horses.
  • Reins: split reins (two separate reins), roping reins (one continuous loop), romal reins (a single rein with a long quirt attached) and mecates (a rope used with a bosal or snaffle).

See our picks for Western headstalls and reins.

Fitting a bridle

  1. Crownpiece: sits just behind the ears without pressing on the back of the ears.
  2. Browband: long enough that it doesn't pull the crownpiece forward into the ears, and doesn't gape away from the forehead.
  3. Throatlatch: loose enough to fit a hand's width, about four fingers, between it and the throat. Too tight restricts breathing and flexion.
  4. Cheekpieces: adjusted so the bit sits at the right height, usually making one or two soft wrinkles at the corners of the mouth with a snaffle.
  5. Noseband: see below.

Check that no buckles sit right on bony points, and that nothing rubs after a ride.

Types of nosebands

Noseband What it does Common use
Plain cavesson Simple band around the nose; finishes the look; anchors a standing martingale Most English riding, hunters
Flash Cavesson plus a thin strap below the bit, in front of it Helps keep the bit still and the mouth from gaping wide; dressage, jumping
Drop Sits lower, below the bit, on the nose bone, fastening in the chin groove Steadies the bit; must not sit on soft nose cartilage
Figure-eight (grackle) Two straps cross on the front of the nose Jumping and eventing; allows freer breathing than a tight flash
Crank (padded) Cavesson with a pulley to tighten it Common in dressage; easy to over-tighten
Anatomical or shaped Cut to avoid sensitive nerves and bones on the face Comfort-focused alternative
Kineton Metal loops pass bit pressure to the nose Strong horses that pull

Most of these exist to keep the bit stable in the mouth and stop a horse from evading it by opening its mouth wide. A well-fitted noseband lets the horse move its jaw, swallow and chew.

How tight should a noseband be?

Research has shown that very tight nosebands raise horses' heart rates and stress levels, reduce their ability to swallow and chew, and can damage the tissue and even the bone underneath. Equestrian science groups recommend the two-finger rule:

  • Two fingers, stacked flat, should fit under the noseband at the front of the nose, not at the side of the jaw where there's more room.
  • Some competitions now check nosebands with a measuring gauge.

If a horse opens its mouth or crosses its jaw, look for the cause: teeth, the bit, the rider's hands, pain elsewhere. Strapping the mouth shut hides the problem rather than solving it.

Where the noseband sits: a cavesson usually sits about one to two fingers below the cheekbone. A drop noseband must sit on the bone, well above the soft cartilage of the nostrils, or it can restrict breathing.

Martingales

Running martingale

A strap runs from the girth, between the front legs, then splits into two straps ending in rings. The reins pass through the rings. When the horse raises its head above a certain point, the martingale changes the angle of the reins so pressure comes down on the bars of the mouth instead of the corners.

  • Fitting: with the horse standing normally, hold both rings up along one side of the shoulder. They should reach roughly to the withers, or up toward the throatlatch, depending on your trainer's preference. Too short, and it pulls on the mouth all the time.
  • Rein stops: small rubber or leather stoppers on the reins keep the rings from sliding forward and catching on the bit.
  • Use: jumping, cross-country, and horses that fling their heads up.

Standing martingale

A single strap runs from the girth to the back of a cavesson noseband. It prevents the horse from raising its head past a fixed point. It's common in the hunter ring. Fit it so that, with the horse's head in a normal position, you can push the strap up to touch the throatlatch.

A standing martingale should never attach to a drop or flash noseband, because it would pull down on the soft part of the nose.

Training aids

German martingales, draw reins and similar devices use leverage to bring the head down. In experienced hands they can help in specific situations. In inexperienced hands they create a horse that's pulled into a frame rather than working into it, and they can do real harm. Use them only with guidance from a trainer.

Breastplates and breast collars

A breastplate keeps the saddle from sliding back, especially on horses with flat withers, on steep hills, or when jumping.

  • Hunting breastplate: a strap around the neck attaches to the saddle's D-rings and to the girth between the front legs.
  • Five-point breastplate: attaches at five points, including near the cantle, for very secure fit in eventing.
  • Western breast collar: a wide strap across the chest attaches to the saddle on each side. Used for roping, ranch work and trail riding in hills.

Fit so you can slide a hand under the straps at the chest and withers, and the breastplate doesn't press on the windpipe or restrict the shoulders. See our picks for breast collars and martingales.

Keeping your bridle in good shape

  • Wipe down the bit and leather after each ride.
  • Clean and condition leather regularly. See saddle and leather care.
  • Check stitching, buckle holes and keepers for wear, especially where the leather folds around the bit.
  • Hang the bridle on a proper bridle rack so it keeps its shape.

Sources

Frequently Asked Questions